These hands are already made for you. A single pair is often good enough to win at showdown so when you start with one you're ahead of the game. Big pocket pairs are such big favorites that you should always raise them for value when nobody has raised in front of you. With aces, kings, queens and even jacks you should often even reraise. The profit in these hands comes from when you flop an overpair to the board or a set. When you do, bet. In a game where most of your opponents are loose-passive your kicker will make you a lot of money.
Top-pair hands do better against one opponent than many so keep that in mind when choosing your bet sizes. These are hands that are rarely going to win at showdown unimproved but when they hit they make big-pot hands. A big-pot hand is a hand like a set, a full house, a straight or a flush. They are speculative hands because they have to hit before they'll be worth anything. They rely on the implied odds that you win your opponent's stack when you do hit. Ideally you would like to see the flop as cheaply as possible with these hands.
Speculative hands do best when played in position, so be wary about playing them from up front. Pocket pairs make huge hands when they flop sets. Sets are often hidden and you can easily stack someone who has top pair or an overpair. For that reason it's OK to limp pocket pairs from any position. When facing a raise you have to think about your opponent. If he's a tight player and unlikely to pay you off when you hit, you're best off folding.
If, however, he's a loose player or you're multiway with more than one loose player , you can call a reasonably sized raise to play for "set value. The main thing about pocket pairs is that when you hit a set you should almost always be looking for the best way to get all your money into the pot. Suited connectors are great hands -- played within reason. They do make both straights and flushes which are both big-pot hands.
When you're in early position you're best off folding low suited connectors. All others should be folded. Suited connectors are hands that play well in position. More often than not you're going to miss the flop or hit a weak one-pair hand. Playing them from out of position , in contrast, is going to put you in too many marginal spots after the flop. Suited connectors should rarely be played versus a raise unless you're on the button and it is a multiway pot or the raise is very small. This can definitely change depending on the game you're in.
Suited connectors have much more value these days and are a viable hand to play from more positions and facing raises. Suited aces are decent speculative hands because they can flop the nut-flush draw and they do have some high-card strength with the ace. Nut-flush draws obviously have value because you can stack smaller flushes. The problem with flushes though is that they are right there in the open. Everyone is always aware when a flush draw comes in and as such it's sometimes difficult to get paid.
Suited aces are good hands but not good enough to limp in from any position. You should be more willing to limp the closer to the button you get. Against a raise suited aces should seldom be played. You're not going to flop a flush nearly as often as you flop a pair of aces with a weak kicker. A weak pair of aces can be a curse. You feel like you have top pair and should see a showdown but by the time you get there you find yourself outkicked and half a stack short.
These are hands that you want to steer clear of for the most part. They are dominated hands and should be avoided at all costs unless you can get in cheap from late position. They don't make many straights or flushes and when they hit a pair you'll find yourself on the losing end of the kicker battle more often than not.
Everything else is trash and should not be played even if it is suited. Suited trash is still trash. The importance of position can't be overstated. Many people think they understand the concept of playing in position but they routinely call raises with marginal hands only to play the rest of the hand out of position. This is a leak that costs you money. When you're out of position you're playing a guessing game - you have to anticipate what your opponent may do.
They dictate the flow of the hand: Which is why being in position is so important: You get last say on everything. If you want to see a free showdown you do; if you want to value-town someone, you do. Your opponents will be guessing, just as you are when you're out of position. As the better player, with the advantage of being in position, you'll ensure that they're guessing wrong more often than right.
Sit back and wait for a good hand. Don't get involved just because you're bored. Start with solid holdings and make solid hands after the flop. When you're card-dead, don't sit around watching TV. Pay attention to the game and your opponents. Profile them in your mind; identify who the weak players are and what their tendencies are.
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If you know who the loose players are and who the tight players are, you'll be able to understand their bets and raises and what they mean. Once you figure out your opponents' tendencies the rest is just a waiting game. Make your big hand and value bet. Exploit the calling stations and force them to put their money in with worse hands.
Having four or five players all call a 10BB raise is not only possible but almost common. You will, occasionally, come across a player making simple dark-tunnel bluffs. But for the most part you can still assume that many players at your table bet when they simply have a strong hand. But the bluffs are rare enough to pretend as if bluffing isn't the most likely option. If you make the call every time you think your opponent is bluffing you will lose far more money than you will make in the game. When you're stuck in the middle of a run of cold cards you can find yourself sitting for hours, folding hands and watching the other players play pots.
Many of these pots will be large-sized pots won by players calling off their stacks on a draw. After watching other players double and triple up, and seeing your own stack slowly shrink, you can start yearning to win a big juicy pot. If you're still running cold on cards it's easy to jump on the bandwagon and push your stack in on a draw.
Just because everyone else is doing it that doesn't mean it's the correct thing to do! An Important Thing to Remember: If you're playing online or sitting with a table of professionals, all the rules change. These concepts are fundamental to understanding how to put value on your outs. Once you're comfortable with the ideas in the above articles, read on. Beginners - and even most intermediate poker players - have a very one-dimensional view of outs. In this view outs are very black or white. You hit the out to win the hand or you don't hit and lose. Some poker players will never progress beyond this simplistic view.
The next step in thinking about outs comes with the understanding of pot odds and implied odds. In the early stages of poker thought these will do nothing more for a player than to allow a logical reason for when and why to chase outs and a basic understanding of when to fold. The truth is, not all outs are made the same. As you can see this adds up to 18 outs. Subtract the one club in our opponents hand and we're left with a total of 17 outs. If we assume our opponent is a tight-aggressive "decent" player, and we're seen as being about the same, we can make the following assumptions:.
Once the outs are broken out like that you can see that in 1, the flush draw must be played exclusively on pot odds. Our opponent will not put in a single dollar after we make the flush, meaning our implied odds are effectively zero.
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If we hit a pair as in 2, we have a chance at making a little bit of money, but not much at all. No tight-aggressive player is going to commit large amounts of money to a pot with nothing but second pair. We need pot odds, since our implied odds are small. But this makes 2 applicable to both types of odds. Finally, 3 is our meal ticket. If we hit the nine for a straight, there is a good chance that we will get one or two medium to large bets out of our opponent.
There's even a chance they'll assume we're bluffing after a raise, giving us a large pot - or even his stack. Situation 3 will almost never have pot odds involved, but the implied odds can be through the roof. In this hand you're hoping to hit your gutshot. This is one of the only scenarios in which you can draw at a gutshot since you have the pot odds on your other draws to make the long shot gamble profitable. Basically you're subsidizing your gamble at an infrequent big pot with the semi-regular small-to-medium pots you'll win from your other outs.
Every time you hit an overcard for the win you win a little bit more money. Finally, when you hit your gutshot, you get paid. This is the biggest secret to a poker professional's success in cash games. Although it may seem like players are getting lucky chasing gutshot draws they're actually putting you on a specific hand and counting all of their outs to beat that hand. Simply put, once you understand how each out helps you and to what degree, you'll be able to make stronger decisions in your play and more acute value bets when you hit.
Poker Strategy -- The Top Five No-Limit Hold'em Lessons
To be successful at poker you need to come to terms with the idea that you're playing for chips. Chips are worthless pieces of clay or plastic , their only purpose that of keeping score. As soon as you start to worry about how the current pot will affect the weight of your wallet you're almost certain to make serious mistakes in your play at the table. You must separate yourself from the money you use to buy in to the table before you even sit down. Whether you win or lose in this single session should be absolutely irrelevant to your immediate financial situation.
Mentions full deck, 10 players, no draw. Frey, Richard - - According to Hoyle - Fulfer, Mac - - Amazing Face Reading. Garrett, Brown - - How to Beat the Game, pp. Gilbert, Kenneth - - Alaskan Poker Stories, 46pp. Glass, Mary Ellen - - Nevada's Turbulent '50s. Golick, Margie - - Deal Me In! Mentions poker as a cheating game, written in not pub till Together with the Laws of the Game. Habeythe - - Jeu de Poker. Halligan, H D - - Hoyle's Games. Hamilton, Mark - - Poker Answers. Reveals Various Methods of Cheating the Unwary, 63pp. Huart, Alain - - Poker, ?
Hutchinson, Robert - - Winning Poker. Korfman, Tony - - Poker - Playing to Win. La Shelle, Kirbe - - Poker Rubaiyat. Laugher, A B - - Poker. Laun - - Jeu de Poker. Levien, David - - Rounders the screenplay.
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Linn, Ed - - Big Julie of Vegas, pp. Livingston, A D - - Dealing with Cheats. Lydston, G Frank - - Poker Jim a novel. Marlo, Edward - - Let's See the Deck, 28pp. Maskelyne, John Nevi - - Sharps and Flats. Masters, Zeke - - Full House Matthews, J B - - Poker Talk.
Mitnick, Kevin - - Art of Deception. Morris, Bert - - Friendly Game A? Mossman, James - - How to Win at Poker. Nabot - - Jeu de Poker. Newman, David - - Esquire's Book of Gambling. Parlett, David - - History of Card Games. Percy, George - - Poker - America's Game, pp. Potter, Jack - - How to Win at Poker. Proctor, Richard Anthony - - Chance and Luck: Renaudet, G - - Le Poker - Regles Completes et Commentaires - L'art de gagner au poker, poker a 52 cartes; a 48, 44, 40, 3 et 32 cartes; freeze out; la partie a la cave; calud des probabilities; le blugg, physiologie du jeu, 31pp ISBN: A prominent duchess privately printed those rules for her court.
The game caught Queen Victoria's fancy, and poker in England soon became known as "Schenck poker". Seymour, Paul - - Hoyle's Rules of Games. Sklansky, David - - Essays on Poker. Smith, Al - - Poker to Win. Stewart, Ian - - Game, Set, and Math.
Holdem Secrets - + Poker Books Sorted by Publication Date
Sykes, Bill - - Poker! Taylor, Ed - - History of Playing Cards. Together with the International Code of Laws. First to describe "poque", Translated to English in
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